Dolls' Eye View: Milan Fall/Winter '18 Trends

L'Italia è bellissima!! After the shows in NY and London, the girls were really happy to get to Milan where they were able to bask in the classic sophistication of knits, leather and old school glamour.

Animal Kingdom

From what we've already seen in NY and the UK, it's safe to say, animal prints are a big thing for next fall. Here in Italy, this trend is spelled out in a number of different ways. It can be worn as simply as a spotted jacket over a pair of jeans, or a top to toe "total look" employing a variety of different patterns (spots or stripes) or even scales of patterns teamed together in the same garment.

With this look, "more is better." Maybe neither you nor I can get away with wearing this much animal print, but our divas have the figures and the attitude to pull it off! The key to this look lies in the mix of two different fabrics with different scales of leopard spots. I already had the fabric for the top and pants, but needed a second knit for the skirt and handbag. With no fabric store around, I headed to the beauty supply store where I found a small turban with just enough fabric! The skirt has leather straps that attach to the waistband and drop down the sides of the skirt. The handbag is from the tutorial you can find by going HERE.

Fur Babies

This theme is about fur trim in a great big, old Hollywood sort of way. Any coat will suffice. It's all about simply adding a boa to pump up the look!

Dovima wears a straight grey wool coat. I made the boa by sewing together a few scraps of rabbit fur taken from the cuff of an old glove. The rabbit fur adapts to the scale of the doll, but scraps of faux fur can be used as well.

We had a LOT of fun here. Kate immediately grabbed a light grey "bathrobe" style wool coat already hanging in the closet. We had some striped faux fur on hand. It is fluffier than the rabbit hair and even though we tried to cut a narrow strip of it, the result still makes for a voluptuous allure. But still, my girls simply LOVED this 1930's glamorous Hollywood movie star look. I expect they will be getting into my stash of faux fur for some time to come!

Skin Flicks

This is the third variation of the animal kingdom trend. This time we're talking abuot garments made from leather and embossed animal patterns (scales). Even if you don't want to go the way of leather, you can still create the look using substitutes: pleather or faux leather, felt or vinyl squares embossed with snakeskin scales (carried by many craft stores). And if you are particularly motivated....you can create your own fabric by hand painting (or foiling) scales with metallic paint to create a sensational evening look like the one by Antonio Barard pictured above.

Coat Check

The cut of these coats are simple. It's all about the fabric! The choice of fabric is behind all of the sensational looks here...be it shiny vinyl, butter soft leather, cushy wool or very regal brocade.

If I had access to a wonderful brocade, I would have made a dolly version of the golden Albino Teodoro coat. Carmela reminded me, however, we already had a vinyl coat in the closet. This is a classic look that never goes out of style and can be worn over everything!

That Shirtwaist Dress

The shirtwaist dress is one of my all time favorites. It is both comfortable and stylish and can be worn in nearly all situations. Making this is very simple....it is an elongation of the oversized shirt pattern and can be cut from any fabric. But what's new here.....these dresses are cut from leather!

I used a lightweight leather for Brie's dress and the pattern for the oversized shirt which I lengthened into a dress. Her matching handbag was made from the tutorial found HERE.

Bar Code

Like most other seasons, there is a dominant presence of black and black/white looks running throughout the collections. All black can be rendered more interesting by using different materials in the same look, by raking in stripes of white, or by using contrasting accessories. Again, silhouettes are basic, skirt lengths tend to be long...dropping below the knee.

A simple leather car coat, a pair of stretch pants, a T-shirt with a face and Tamron is ready to hit the road!

Pinot Grigio

Like Italy's favorite white wine, this group is light, crisp and easy to digest. It's almost like cleansing the palette between the animal prints, the hot colors and the density of all black fashion.

Grey Scale

In between black and white there is grey. But unlike grey skies, these looks are glamorous! As with most other looks on this page, note the style trends: longer hemlines, looser silhouettes, shorter dresses worn with pencil thin pants.

Soft

Soft is a state of mind here....soft colors....soft,cuddly fabrics....soft in the way the garment fits and gracefully drapes over the body. Think about big, loose, jersey jackets over sweaters and wide trousers. A-line dresses under softly flared coats, or even ponchos belted over narrow pants.

This is Joan in a cream white 2-piece dress version of the Agona outfit. I started with a basic jewel-neck cashmere sweater knit dress over which a waist-length stole from the same fabric wraps over the bodice and snaps in the back. The back story-- Initially I made a capelet instead of the stole. When I finished, Joan resembled one of the nuns from my childhood Catholic school. It was NOT the look I was going for. At first I thought my choice of fabric had impacted the final look. So I stopped to analyze the style and what had attracted me to it. It was the tight square piece that drew the arms close to the body and cut across the shoulders in a horizontal line. I replace the cape with a stole that cradled the shoulders. After taking another close look at the original photo, I discovered the dress was actually designed with a stole and not a capelet! The cashmere, by the way, came from an old moth-eaten skirt belonging to my beloved mother. 

Late Bloomers

Atypical of winter fashion..... hybrid flowers blooming out of season. A necessary element to Italian style--femininity is sculpted in bloom of ruffles.

Getting the look is as simple as using two strips of decorative trim: one that fits over the bodice and the other gathered into a pretty ruffled skirt.

Very Berry

Another a color story with easy to wear styles. While shopping for fabrics, feast on tones of blueberry, blackberry, raspberry and strawberry.

South of the Border

Ole, ole!!! Hot spicy colors, flared silhouettes that swing and swirl around the legs...this is one of the most festive (and colorful trends we've seen in a long time. We loved the wild Pucci prints, the circle skirts with the big patch pockets and even the knit dress in curried tones edged with lots of fringe.

This can be any wild and wonderful print of any fabric. The important thing about Cathy's look is the circle skirt (with patch pockets) cut from a festive print and worn with a simple sweater or top.

After Hours Around the Duomo di Milano

The latest (Italian) version of the late night, go-everywhere black dress where the details and the accessories make the difference!

We LOVED Versace's version of La Dolce Vita (1960) starring the glamorous Anita Ekberg and Anouk Aimee. While I didn't do a line for line version, I did something similar and little bit sexier. The original dress is looser (the fabric fall down from one side of the neck and is caught in the center back seam) and it has a hoodie built in. I used a sweater knit for Sybille's version and added fullness to one side of the dress which is then shirred into the side seam. Sybille's dress has a funnel neckline. Thinking back of the movie stars from the 1960's (Gina Lollobrigida, Sopia Loren comes to mind), I simply wrapped Sybille's head with a jersey scarf and slid on a pair of over-sized sunglasses (borrowed from my 16" Tonners).

I normally wouldn't do something this simple, but since it was Versace.... and this doll begged me.....Katoucha's dress is made of a double layer of polyester organza drawn into the waist with a fancy belt. It's one of those basic looks that rely on the choice of fabric, a look that you can dress up with lots of jewelry or quietly slide under a fancy coat or jacket.

Easter's right around the corner. The girls already have a drawer full of hats thanks to previous posts.

In My Easter Bonnet, 

Belle du Jour,

Easy Straw Hats

Heart-FELT Desires

Joan's Agona dress has the kind of deep Southern style you'd most likely see in attendance at many Pascal celebrations. The only thing needed was a hat. So I made a small beret with a cluster of fabric scraps. The perfect way to top off Joan's holiday outfit! Happy Easter to you all!!

But wait, there's more! We'll see you next in Paris for the last of Fashion Month!!!

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Doll's Eye View: Milan Spring/Summer 18 Trends

For the most part, the dolls in the house LOVE Italian fashion. While there were a few disastrous shows (like Gucci) that made them cry, there were numerous others that tickled their fancy. For this a spring summer collection, we would have liked more color,  but still, the girls found enough sexy styles that had me sewing frantically over the past six days.

Short Stop

While're not in a hemline dictatorship. That said, look to the Italians to make best use of all lengths when it comes to mid-summer styles. Summer starts with the cool, sexy look of super mini dresses, boxy shorts and bra tops. Colorful digital printed fabric is particularly hot!

For Gail, we did a three-piece ensemble in a "designer" printed fabric: over-shirt, bras and belted skirt. If you're wondering about the origins of the 1/6 scale Versace classic print for this look, see "Dolly Versace" for instructions on how I printed this myself.

Casual Encounters

This is about no-stress, easy to wear pants and dresses. Important here are jumpsuits that glide over the body, knit dresses (dolly sockwear), or spacious tops and dresses belted at the waist. It's the small details, like a sleeve slit at the shoulders and held together with laces that make this look really specially special.

Sexy and comfortable in her 2-piece dress, Iman chose matching arm-warmers and sneakers in a similar color palette to accessorize this look.

Scarf Tricks

This season saw Donatella Versace pay tribute to her late brother, Gianni with a collection of iconic looks using the house's classic logo prints. It all looks as if she cut up scarves to create these styles...which by the way, gave the girls lots of big ideas. (They're already in my scarf drawer imagining all sorts of creations! Thank goodness they can't use scissors!!!) Here again, silhouettes are pretty simple: bra tops, short bolero jackets and straight legged trousers--all cut from scarf prints!

Michelle's eye, however, was focused on this Giorgio Armani dress. It's a batsic sheath dress with a scarf sewn into one shoulder whic is then threaded through a slit just under the bust. It's a way of giving a basic black (or any other color) dress a great pop of color, print and flare!

Jerry, on the other hand, is not into such fancy clothes. She's perfectly happy with a top made from a scaled down scarf worn over a simple pair of white jeans. I actually cut a small square of silk from an existing scarf. My super simple version is suspended from a simple wire necklace.

Day to Night

Black and white...a trend which we've seen since New York...prevails. At this point, let's just call it a classic summer trend. The most striking looks we've seen is when the dress or top is literally sliced in half (vertically or diagonally). Great drama even when the garment is as simple as a top worn over a contrasting pant or skirt.

Dinner at the Duomo di Milano

When in doubt...wear black! That seems to be the motto these days. (My girls are not complaining. Except for the younger Barbies, the rest of them LOVE black!) This group is comprised of easy to wear garments in a variety of summer fabrics (from lace to organdy)..but all drenched in black. The girls loved Max Mara's organdy sarong skirt worn over a matching leotard. And we all very much like the flirty little dinner suits created by Dolce Gabbana and Versace.

Though this looks more winter than spring or summer, Liu loved the classy look of a bolero jacket over a knife pleated skirt. What makes this one a wee bit more special is the addition of her black opaque tights.

Misty

Silhouette wise, there's not a lot that we haven't seen before. The real story here is the soft, nude color palette. There is that amazing organdy sarong skirt of Max Mara, but we also loved the blush lace used for No. 21's slip dress as well. And, take another look at those Max Mara pants in lined organdy.

Celestial Angels

Soft flowing gowns and one that twinkles....these are soft formal wear dresses that could have floated down from the heavens.  What the girls love about them is the billowing sheer fabric that drops from the shoulders or swirls around the legs. These are dresses that make my dolls feel like the vinyl princesses they are.

Fit to Be Tied

And now for the devilish duds.....black corsets, tutus and bra tops that wrap around the torso, bondage style.... all of this made for some very edge looks that are a lot of fun to make. The Alberta Ferretti bra and short was a black version of something we saw coming out of New York last summer. But it was still fun to see it in black. The corset worn as outer wear is a big trend coming in. I could not resist making the heavily laced version for one of my dolls.

Here's Samantha showing off this sultry Dolce & Gabbana look. Instead of using my normal corset pattern, This one is essentially six squares of leather skinny rectangles loosely held together with embroidery yarn. The look begins with a bra and old fashion pantie, over which I made a handkerchief skirt from black chiffon. After completing the corset, it goes over the doll's body and the strings are adjusted to conform to the body's curves. I used velcro to fasten the two panels in the back.

Not every doll is as daring as Sybille. We were all intrigued by this dress made entirely of tulle. It's not perfect, but...this all begins with a corset top made of tulle and a pair of old fashion panties. (I did make another bra for her, but it seemed to dense. The rest of the dress is a tube of tulle. I made a running stitch on both sides of the tube using embroidery thread which allows me to adjust the length. If I make this again, the tulle tube needs to be shaped and fitted closer to the body so that it fits a little better. And again, though I personally wouldn't wear this dress...there are dolls in my house that are already fighting over who gets to wear it for New Year's Eve!!!

There is one more stop on this fashion month train! Up next...PARIS!!! Stay tuned!!!

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Doll's Eye View: Milan Fall/Winter 2017 Trends

This season in Milan was classic Italian! For years, I looked to the Italians for timeless fashion that never goes out of style. But in recent years, it seems the "creative at all cost" bug had bitten many of the designers who lost their touch and put all kinds of craziness on the catwalks. I'm not sure what happened this season. Could it be this "new world order" has forced designers stop experimenting and retreat to the "sure value" of their "home base?" Maybe it's a pause to reassess their own cultural strength in able to build a more authentic future product. In any case, my girls liked much of what they saw....clothes in simple lines and easy-to-wear styles with a bit of an edge!

9 to 5

This is about the working woman and her increasing prominence in the world. These are great classic looks in neutrals and plaids that play with proportion. Look for structure in the shoulders (a trend that's gaining traction) and a pop of color via accessories. Note the layering of a mid-calf coat over a slightly longer skirt or the trompe l'oeil jacket that gives the illusion of being duo-tiered (Fendi). Lengths are mid thigh to mid calf but the overall look is that of understated elegance and class.

Neutral Territory

A continuation of the above theme, again this is all a salute to women on the go. Silhouettes move at the same pace as the wearer. They skim the body in fluid shapes landing below the knee or over trousers. But the main focal point here is the color palette...soft beige and winter pastels for casually elegant looks that slip easily from late day into chic evening attire.

Curry

No doubt about it, this is a story about color. The kind of rich, delicious tones me and the girls LOVE to see for this time of year. Again, we're looking at classic items but ones drenched in the spicy colors of saffron, paprika, curry, chili, and cinnamon. Also worth noting here: below the knee lengths for skirts, fitted blazers and loose fitting trousers. Nothing is choked. Everything fits over the body with ease.

Sweater Girl

While on the subject of spicy, tangy color palettes....this is the best way to go sweater dressing next fall. Missoni is known for it's silky jersey dresses in prints that mix, match and sometimes clash. This year, they look particularly interesting to my girls' eyes! The best thing is that, it's easy to recreate the spirit of these looks for dolly using.....socks! (And yes, there is a Dolly Missoni post planned for the near future here!!)

What makes this so much fun is that you can put two opposing patterns together to get this trendy look. The secret is for both to share at least one color in common. Both the cardigan and the dress underneath were created from (Dollar store) socks!

White Out 

We saw lots of white on the red carpet at the Oscars and now we're seeing white as a serious trend for next Winter. When planning dolly's wardrobe, think about making big overcoats, fitted blazers over wide trousers, outerwear with fur touches and popcorn knits in snow-cone white or creamy vanilla.

For me, what makes this look is the popcorn knit jacket over the straight legged trousers. The pockets and the hem dragging the floor were overkill, so I left them off Nathalie's pants. I can't knit so I made the jacket from a winter scarf I found on sale.

PANDA-monium...

White with slashes or patches of black....the girls love this theme beginning with the over sized coats right down to the slouchy sweater over jogging pants. For the coats on either end, we imagined using the pattern for the kimono as a base. In any case, these big white shapes are tossed over the shoulders of anything black!

Animal Magnetism

What would winter be without a few jungle critters. Animal prints are fashion's newest "neutrals." With so much absence of pattern in print in recent years, these prints--particularly the pantsuit by Emilio Pucci--looked so fresh, very Soho,  and....spot on!

Again, we are talking about a mix of patterns which results in a creative, artsy approach to the Fall season. Grace loves her oversize zebra striped tunic worn over an abstract black & white stripe.

A Lick of Licorice

Think leather but think about it in small doses. In contrast to a "hard core" biker girl look, this trend simply uses leather to add a bit of luster to a streetwear look. A wimple miniskirt, the licorice detailing of a maxi dress, a leather tunic or bra over a sweater....this is a simple yet somewhat edgy way to update ordinary items in your doll's wardrobe.

Simple Thoughts

The little black dress and beyond is a timeless way to rock winter fashion. What the girls liked here are the little touches that make it special. Things like using fabrics or leather with texture, opera length leather gloves, accessories that add a pop of color or the white cuffs that poke out from sweater sleeves.

Samantha wears a slip dress extraordinaire.... The devil is in the details as it's all about familiar shapes in subtle textures. I could have used a thick, brushed wool for this dress. But I had a bit of leather which, admitted, I struggled to use. This is a one-piece slip dress cut from leather with a flat nap. I teamed it with matte rayon stovepipe pants and accessorized it with opera length leather gloves.

An Evening Encounter

Evening wear in Italy this time around has all of the glamour we're used to seeing, but without the bling.  Once again, it's all about texture! A silvery top over a sweep of white satin, a nest of feathers woven over the torso, or even the drama of pleated, black dotted Swiss gathered into a cinched waist over layers of white tulle a la 1950's! What the girls love about these looks is there are no rules in what constitutes glamour.

Case in point....Monica's dress. It starts out with something as simple as a taffeta camisole and a stretch lace skirt. We made an overskirt attaching many strips of ripped tulle and polka dotted sheer to a ribbon tied around her waist. Simple and stunning!

If I had let them, my dolls would still have me in Milan making more of this collection. However....Paris is just ahead. Come on girls....there's still LOTS more to explore. LOTS more clothes ahead!

A bientot a Paris!

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