From now through January 7, 2018 the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, is paying tribute to the seventieth anniversary of the most famous name in fashion, Christian Dior with a grandiose exhibition entitled, “Christian Dior, Designer of Dreams.” Well conceived, meticulously organized and incredibly executed, this exhibition is a 3,000 square meter artistic voyage of pure visual delight and discovery. Though Mr. Dior was only present for the first 10 years of his namesake fashion house, his work as couturier and businessmen as well as contributions made by the designers who succeeded him paint a picture of the enduring legacy and evolution of France’s number one temple of style. Some 300 haute couture garments surrounded by handbags, shoes, bags, perfume bottles, photographs, paintings, illustrations (by Rene Gruau and Mats Gufstasen), along with documents, letters, sketches, print ads, fashion show video clips spread over 3000 square feet is more than enough to plunge the visitor into a luxurious fantasyland that is quintessentially…..Dior.
The exhibition begins with an introduction to the man behind the name. We learned Christian Dior came from an aristocratic family and was inspired by the wardrobe of his fashionably dressed mother. His professional career saw him first, working in an art gallery before turning to the world of style.
Paintings, period furniture and objet d’art are used as a setting to convey the couturier’s aesthetics, culture and inspiration. As to be expected, there are plenty of full size garments—from the New Look suit to the embroidered Junon gown with its sequined petals-- each one more beautiful than the other. But to my surprise and delight, the exhibition also includes an extensive part of “Le Peit Theatre de Dior”—one-third scale versions of many of Dior’s dresses and suits.
Inasmuch as we were allowed to take as many photos as desired, me and the girls are treating all of you to a personal tour as seen through 100 pictures. There is so much to show you, I have divided our tour into two (very long) sections. In this the first part, the focus is placed on the full scale work of Dior and the designers who followed him. This will be followed by more photos showing the 1/3 scale dresses as well as the last, most elaborate theme, “Versailles,” a befitting finale.
What I saw was beyond words, so I promise to keep my text to a minimum and simply let the photos speak for themselves. Enjoy!
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| The New Look that launched Christian Dior in 1947 |
It all starts here…The New Look. New Look Spring-Summer collection in 1947, Christian Dior took the feminine shape in a totally new direction, relegating the masculine silhouette of the war years to the past. His dresses expressed a modern femininity, incarnated by his flower-woman and producing a shape characterized by flowing curves.
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| Raf Simon's modern take on the New Look Silhouette |
Side by side, one garment for every year Christian Dior has been in business. In a glimpse we can see how silhouettes have evolved from the end of WWII thru today’s styles.
The “Dior Garden,” a lavish theme of floral dresses, gowns with intricate embroidery or even hand cut petals are surrounded by laser cut flowers that drop from the ceilings and spring from the floor. For the theme, Versailles, the nave of the museum was bathed in lights, providing the illusion of attending a most magnificent ball within interiors of the Chateau.
Including Dior, the legacy of the house has been in the hands of seven couturiers: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Tchuri (the current designer). This section takes a peak at each one’s contributions.
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| We begin with the creations of Mr. Dior |
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| After his death, a young Yves St. Laurent succeeded Dior. |
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| Marc Bohan was the next designer in line as designer for Dior |
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| The work of Gianfranco Ferre, the Italian designer at the helm of Dior |
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| Enter, Englishman, John Galliano |
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| Raf Simons followed Galliano and was eventually replaced by the current designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri |
But before a dress becomes a dress, it is a toile.
“The Atelier” provides an unusual glimpse of the work that goes on in the couture house’s atelier. These white cotton dresses are draped embryos, which after much adjustment, consultation and decisions on color, fabric and embellishments, ultimately blooms into the finished garment we see fluttering down the catwalk.
End of Part I. Stay tuned...there's more! Up next: Dior in miniature. And, the girls to to a ball at Versailles! Dior's ball at Chateau Vesailles!!
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