A Nod to Jeanne Lanvin (expo)

When it comes to Paris fashion, Lanvin is a pretty familiar name. It is, perhaps a household word as the case of Dior, Chanel or YSL due to the lack of a clear identity where the house's namesake is concerned. At least that was my opinion before seeing the current show at The Palais Galliera, one of two fashion museums in Paris. The museum has set out to change misconceptions like mine with this, the first comprehensive exhibition honoring the oldest fashion house still in existence, "Jeanne Lanvin."

Though a wide selection of dresses, hats, lithographs, photos and film clips chosen by Albert Elbaz, Lanvin's current designer, the visitor quickly discovers a woman, one of the first fashion entrepreneurs with a vision and a business plan. Like many female designers of the day, Lanvin began as a milliner then rapidly built a fashion empire (well before Chanel or Dior). Soon after setting up her hat shop in 1885, she married, purchased the building (which exists today) then in 1908, launched a line of childrenswear, apparel for young ladies and women, then added bridal wear, lingerie and finally menswear in 1926!

Jeanne Lanvin and daughter served as the basis for the company logo.

Lanvin's famous perfume, "Arpege" packaged in a gold emblazoned black spherical bottle, bears her logo--a drawing of her with her daughter, the primary source of her inspiration, throughout her life.

Known for her use of artistic materials, embroidery, topstitching, spirals, cut-outs as well as the classic Art Deco codes of the day, her creations were quite modern and innovative.

"My Fair Lady" gown. White circular ribbon pattern on tulle. 1939

Throughout the show, we were impressed by the profusion of topstitching, embroidery and the use of geometrics, much of which could easily be worn today.

Black taffeta with Swarovski crystal beads. 1925

Another standout--Lanvin's "Dresses as Jewels." In 1925, the Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes was held in Paris. Fashion was well represented as was Lanvin who presented a display of silk chiffon gowns encrusted in beads, crystals, gold and silver lame. So popular were these dresses, Lanvin set up three embroidery ateliers within her fashion house to keep up with the demand.

The fashions on display had quite a number of great ideas especially when it comes to embellishments. For this exhibition, I selected a dress entitled "Neptune" to recreate on Estelle, my model. The trick to transforming period costume into modern fashion is to borrow details from the original but translate the overall silhouette into modern aesthetics. The original is a loosely fitted, bias cut silk cocktail dress with fringe made from a skillful arrangement of long folded ribbons forming a spiral. I have not been always happy with the way these loose dresses look on my dolls, so I chose to cut a sheath dress, instead.

"Neptune" dress (and its interpretation) from Lanvin Fall 1926 collection.

The bottom layer of loops (made from 1/8-inch 3mm) follows the horizontal lines of the hem while the top layer is placed on the diagonal. Though I like the result, I will admit, I ran out of ribbon and will probably add in more loops at a later date.

Black silk chiffon dress (l) with wavy embellishment & braided gold lamé. Brick coat (r) 1936.

On the other hand, Jolie, my model standing inbetween the two Lanvin garments, is wearing a simple tunic dress we featured awhile ago, created from a small swatch of antique jet beaded tulle. For instructions as to how to make it, click here.

White satin wedding dress. 1929

Coming up right away..."Yves Saint Laurent 1971: Scandalous!"

Images of the Lanvin clothing by Katerina Jebb courtesy of the Palais Galliera.

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist
We're also on Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/FashDollStylist
And Facebook as well: www.facebook.com/FashDollStylist

Location:Palais Galliera (Paris)